The Small Things are the Big Things

Life Below our Boots

When you drive, you watch the road—but when you hike, you stare at the ground for hours. Perhaps there are moments when you stop and acknowledge the sapphire sky, ...

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From Desert to Sea: The End of the Jordan Trail

“That mountain, over there,” says Mahmoud, pointing to a jagged chunk of faraway granite, “That’s Saudi Arabia.” Read More

Haircuts in Kerak & Bedouin Tea

The Art of "No Thank You"

If we accepted every offer for tea, we would never finish hiking the Jordan Trail. Instead, we would still be somewhere back in Section One, halting our way across the stony landscape and never moving more than ...

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What The Guidebooks Don't Tell You: Um Qais to Ajloun

Land of Many Colors

If the Jordan Trail resembles the Jordanian flag, then I have just crossed the broad green stripe.

Every day the path turns greener, as if some divine ...

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Walking Through Time on the Jordan Trail

Walking Through Time 

Just outside the village of Ma’tan we came upon some forgotten Roman city, the long and flowing stone walls following the contour of the land, each rock carefully ...

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The First Day

Making History in Jordan

Three drops of rain fell on my head, and then it stopped. In a few seconds, the dark mist of rain vanished in favor of the more common sunshine that matched the mood of the crowd. Ours was a small gathering—a ...

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Beating the Heat on the Jordan Trail

Donkeys Are a Man's Best Friend

We have a donkey now. His name is William Shakespeare and he has long whiskers sprouting from his soft ...

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Here Comes The Sand

In all my life, I have never felt this small—by day, I am nothing more than a sweaty speck on the land, and at night, a single star shining from a million miles away seems bigger than me, down here on ...

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